Day 42 (October 1, 2006) - Newport, OR 
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Newport is cute, it reminds me of a scruffy New England fishing village, except for the sea lions basking in the sun at the harbor. We walk about the old town center to watch the sea lions, then we decide to press on and hit the rugged coast, hopefully a beach or two on the way.

The coastline is very rugged, the ocean is pacific in some parts but not in others and makes quite a show hitting the rocks that protrude from the water. We get to a point called Devil's Chasm, where the ocean water hits some rock formation and penetrates some caves spewting out from the top. it's quite a scene. We are driving along the Oregon Coast Scenic Byway, needless to say it's a much-loved route for long-distance cyclists, stretching some 340 miles from Astoria north of Portland down to Brooking by the California border. The stretch between Lincoln City and Newport, which we drove yesterday, is more rugged than the one we are driving today, but at every turn there is a State Park and we are tempted to stop at each and every one of them. Eventually we need to give up on the idea because we are driving an average of 3 miles an hour by doing so. It would take an entire week to explore it all. Cape Perpetua is a particularly scenic stretch, it climbs up on the edge of a cliff and offers a stunning view of the ocean and the black volcanic rocks that fell into it many thousands of years ago. It also has a lighthouse, which apparently is the most photographed in the world. We get to the Sea Lion Caves, pay the entrance fee and walk down to see them. They hang out here every winter, only going south to warmer waters during the summer months for mating, and they are making a comeback after they were almost entirely wiped out in the '20s (a US bill asked for the complete extermination of them in this area, because they were damaging the fishing industry). The cave is the largest sea cave in the world and there is an elevator bringing you down some 200 ft inside the mountain. Some sea lions are perched on a rock in the middle of it.

Our destination for today is Florence, OR where we find an RV park close to town. This is the start of the Oregon Dunes, where the landscape changes drastically from cliffs and rocks to sand dunes as high as hills. We take the Vespa into the small downtown, walk about until past sunset and after loading up with groceries we head back to camp for dinner and some work.

Sea lions at the Newport harbor.

They were making a lot of noise!

Maybe singing in concert for the onlookers?

A beach.

The Alsea river flows into the Pacific Ocean here in Waldport.

Volcanic rocks.

The ocean waves smashing into them.

More rocks.

One nice beach along the way.

This looks pacific!

A view from Cape Perpetua.

The lighthouse at Cape Perpetua.

Going down to see the sea lions.

Here they are!

Sea lions in the cave.

Arriving at the dunes.
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